Adjust flash cure temperature and dwell time so ink is just dry to touch. Avoid excessive flash temperatures to protect fabric and migration of dyes. Depending on flash unit, a 3 - 5 second flash is adequate.
For best results, use a print-flash-print technique to ensure sufficient ink deposit on dark fabrics.
Use 86–230t/in (34-90t/cm) mesh screens with high tension for best performance, ink release and opacity. Lower mesh equals more deposit. Use higher meshes to achieve half tones.
Adjust your print parameters to allow this ink to clear fully on the second stroke using medium to low pressure for best dye blocking and opacity. As this ink shears down, less pressure will be required. Adjust accordingly.
Curing is a time and temperature process. Using a lower temperature, at a lower belt speed will provide the best result without damaging the fabric.
A behavior for high-opacity low cure inks is to "body-up" or gain viscosity when at rest. Be sure to "Pre-shear" or agitate this ink before use to achieve optimal flow before printing. Be careful to not use highspeed drills or similar equipment that will create friction-heat that can cause the ink to begin to cure. Store ink buckets up off of cold floors to reduce pre-shear time.
For the best coverage, bleed resistance and brightest prints, adjust the off contact distance and squeegee pressure to print the ink layer on top of the printed fabric rather than pushing the ink entirely through it.
This ink is most effective with thicker screen stencils. Take care to not "over-flash" this or any plastisol ink. Flash to gel just short of cure to ensure inter-coat adhesion.
Dyed Poly fabrics become unstable around 230° F, be sure to cool down garment quickly after successful cure is reached.
Avoid "hot stacking" printed poly garments coming off the dryer belt. This will help stabilize the shirt pigment.
Poly garments that are allowed to remain warm after exiting the dryer are more susceptible to dye migration.
